The Drouhin 2005 Chambertin Clos de Beze – which combines purchased fruit with a bit from their domaine – displays a classic nose of black cherry, licorice, white pepper, and rose petal; stains the palate with its intensity of fruit, herb and flower while displaying fantastic elegance, polish and silken refinement of texture; and grips for dear life in a finish marked by stunningly vivid floral perfume. This superb Pinot should not be revisited for at least 5-7 years and will doubtless be worth holding for twice that amount of time. These 2005s were bottled around two months earlier than usual, says Frederic Drouhin, to retain freshness. (Long-time oenologue Laurence Jobard, incidentally, was replaced this year by Jerome Faure-Brac.) As is always the case, fruit from a great many properties owned or accessed by Drouhin is declassified and blended out, leaving only selected terroirs as the subjects of single-site bottlings. (In 2004, for example, even the Beaune Clos des Mouches – due to hail – was declassified into lip-smacking, remarkably soothing Cote de Beaune.) That said, as befits the quality of 2005, there were more individual bottlings from this vintage than is usual, and I did not taste all of them. (Wines from the Drouhin domaine holdings display a “D” in their listing.) This year’s collection radiates class from top to bottom. Even Drouhin’s ubiquitous, 25,000-case generic “Laforet” displays tender, ripe cherry fruit, a silky palate and iodine-like minerality. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Laforet ($14.00;85). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818 0770