Tasted in that well-known Bordeaux appellation called "Burgundy," the 1990 Chateau Gruaud Larose is a Saint Julien that has always flirted with funkiness. Here that came through quite strongly on this occasion, partly because it was juxtaposed against the purity of the 1990 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge. That does not detract from a thoroughly enjoyable wine. The nose shows just a touch of brettanomyces here, soft black fruit with melted tar, graphite, leather and game. The palate has a gaminess from start to finish, carrying the warmth of that summer into the glass, melted tannins with just a touch of dryness towards the finish. It is a pleasurable, if not intellectual Saint Julien to drink over the next 15 years. Tasted June 2015.

Meaty, smoky, sweet berry and black currant characteristics intertwined with roasted herb, charcoal, new saddle leather, and bloody steak juice-like notes are found in this lush, full-bodied, opulent wine. It is a fully mature 1990 that, given its depth and intensity, should continue to evolve for at least another 15 years. Release price: ($350.00/case)