The estate’s 2010 Aglianico kicks things up a notch. Aging in French oak gives the wine additional volume and richness while not detracting from the wine’s varietal espressiveness. This is a surprisingly accessible, creamy Aglianico with considerable early appeal. Some of the grape’s rougher contours and wildness have been replaced by layers of resonant, beautiful fruit, making for an absolutely delicious wine loaded with early appeal. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Mastroberardino is another winery that seems to have found an extra gear or two over the last few years. The Taurasis remain the flagships, but readers should also pay close attention to the entry-level reds and the best whites in this range. All of the wines are deeply varietal, making Mastroberardino a perfect place to start learning about the great wines of Campania. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620