Henri Marionnet's wines have been frequent entries in these pages. A talented winemaker, Marionnet has had the intelligence to keep his prices fair. He also makes a luxury cuvee, the fabulous M de Marionnet, which I have been crazy about since its debut vintage, 1989. If there is a 1992 M de Marionnet, it is not likely to be released for at least a year. But don't despair. Marionnet produces some of the best Gamay in the Loire Valley. His 1992 Gamay is a richly fruity, supple, stylish wine with low acidity, excellent ripeness, and plenty of Gamay's crunchy, fresh, red fruit character. It does not taste like Beaujolais, offering more roundness and complexity, and less acidity. It, too, should be consumed for its freshness and exuberance over the next 12 months. An Alain Junguenet Selection, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ.