A 2007 St.-Aubin Sur Gamay was a bit reduced on the sole occasion that I tasted it. Saline as well as slightly sweaty in the nose, it offers another relatively austere but distinctively impressive performance from the De Montille duo, mingling alkaline and chalky notes with the bitterness of fruit pits. There is no question about concentration and length here, but right now the wine is too tight to crack. In the course of its six years, this negociant business of siblings has mourned the loss of a few excellent contracts, but continues to be an expanding source of impeccably rendered, consistently nuanced (and almost exclusively white) Burgundies. Alix de Montille puts special emphasis on ferreting out excellent sites in the less fashionable villages of the Cote d'Or, as well as in the Cote Chalonnaise. The resulting wines are expensive relative to their appellations but not to their quality. (For more about Alix de Montille's approach – avowedly influenced by that of her husband, Jean-Marc Roulot – readers are urged to consult my report in issue 180.)Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29