A surprisingly good effort in a more stern, tannic, masculine vintage, the color is deep plum/garnet, and the wine has notes of underbrush, compost, smoke, vanilla, and herb-tinged cherries. Rather firmly structured, with some stiff rigid tannin still to dissipate, this wine is medium-bodied, relatively powerful for a Croix de Gay, with more muscle and power than most vintages. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted, 3/02.