Another lively, youthful Hermitage that's drinking beautifully is the 1998 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette. Coming from l'Ermite, Bessards and Sabot lieux-dits and aged in equal parts new and once-used French oak, it reveals an opaque, ruby color to go with beautiful notes of olives, spring flowers, currants, cassis and hints of bacon fat. Full-bodied, elegant and detailed, with lots of granite character and minerality, it's at the early stages of maturity and has another two decades of longevity.