There are three barrels of the 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru, a wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of dark fruits and minty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, tangy and firm, with good energy and length on the finish. It will need some time, but it's one of Bichot's more successful 2017s.

The 2015 Chambertin Grand Cru has a very expressive bouquet that comes racing out of the traps: ebulliant morello cherries, crushed strawberry, rose petals and damson scents that are quite intoxicating even at this prenatal stage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, tensile tannin, layers of crisp red cherry and raspberry fruit sprinkled with white pepper and clove. This builds nicely in the mouth and it fans out gloriously, whereas the Charmes-Chambertin remains recalcitrant and linear. This is superb.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot) has a sedate, very fine bouquet with redcurrant, raspberry preserves, cold stone and dried rose petal aromas that gradually unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine delineation, very poised but it tightens up quite sharply toward the finish. It will need several years to develop more body and flesh, but it will. Tasted September 2017.