The 2008 Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito is a very particular and unique wine. The tannins are very firm to the point of dominating the wine’s balance, not much of an issue with young reds built to age, but more problematic in a dessert wine meant to be enjoyed pretty much upon release. Frankly, today it’s hard to get much pleasure out of the 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Marco Caprai remains one of the leaders in Montefalco. This year, Caprai has a new wine, a single-vineyard 2007 Sagrantino that emerges from a parcel next to a pond that gives these vines a unique micro-climate. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

The 2007 Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito flows with the essence of bright red berries, flowers and sweet spices. It is an unusually refined version of Montefalco's dessert wine. The Sagrantino tannins have largely been tamed in this beautifully sculpted, precise Passito. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Marco Caprai continues to set the standard for contemporary wines in Montefalco. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

The 2006 Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito flows onto the palate with layers of dark, sumptuous fruit that come together seamlessly. The firm Sagrantino tannins are evident but there is more than enough fruit to provide balance. This is another fine effort from Marco Caprai. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Marco Caprai has long led the way in Montefalco. These 2006s are Caprai’s best wines yet and capture all of the promise they showed when I tasted them from barrel a year ago. Simply put, readers will not want to miss these fabulous wines. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

The 2005 Passito Sagrantino di Montefalco is simply beautiful in the way it bridges the gap between dry table wine and dessert wine. Red cherries, plums, spices and sweet herbs flow onto the palate in stunning style. The tannins are refined and supremely elegant. Caprai’s passito is one of less-sweet versions of this wine, and in 2005 it is harmonious and absolutely delicious. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. This is another strong set of releases from Marco Caprai, the producer most responsible for calling attention to the potential of Sagrantino in these hillside vineyards. The estate itself is sprawling, and covers 150 hectares of vineyards planted to various densities and trellising systems that clearly show the enormous expense Caprai has undertaken to fully understand the unique qualities of Sagrantino. At the heart of the property is a large, well-appointed visitors’ center and tasting facility that looks more like something out of Napa Valley rather than rural Italy. My tasting at Caprai was remarkable as I had a chance to revisit a number of older vintages, which will be reviewed in a forthcoming article on www.erobertparker.com. Caprai’s wines tend towards the modern end of the spectrum, with French oak used for both malolactic fermentation and aging. The wines often appear tough when young, but with a few years in bottle they can develop beautifully. In the finest vintages, Caprai’s top wines drink well to age 15 and occasionally beyond. Importer: Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060