The Castello della Sala 2019 Cervaro della Sala relies on a time-honored formula in which the Grechetto grape adds vertical intensity and freshness and Chardonnay gives structure and sophistication. Indeed, Grechetto (with late-harvest clones) never goes above 10% of the blend, and no malolactic fermentation is performed on that variety in order to maintain its tonic and fresh personality. This stunning edition shows orchard fruit, honey and flinty notes. The Chardonnay ferments in neutral barrique from September to February, and fine-grained wood is prioritized to render a reductive winemaking technique to further preserve aromatic intensity. This mid-weight and age-worthy white is redolent of Golden Delicious apple, acacia flower and tropical fruit.

Compared to the 2017 vintage that shows a more accessible and full-bodied style, the 2018 Cervaro della Sala is a classic edition—it's about as classic as I have ever tasted this landmark white from Umbria to be. This cooler vintage prizes finesse and elegance, and those traits are matched by efforts in the winery to accomplish that same goal. On many levels, the 2018 vintage opens a new chapter for Cervaro della Sala, with a stronger emphasis on preserved lemon, crisp pear and crushed mineral. The wine offers beautiful freshness and linearity. I must also mention that this vintage is released while the fruit is still a bit closed or shy. That slightly reductive approach bodes very well for the wine's future evolution.