Cool, slightly minty stem notes accent bright cherry fruit in the 2017 Pinot Noir, most of which was picked before the rains, according to winemaker Helen Masters. It's crisp and medium-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, refreshing finish. It may be even longer-lived than I've suggested.

Ata Rangi's current release, the 2016 Pinot Noir, features hints of sage leaves and minty stemminess, beautifully balanced by plush fruit. It's medium to full-bodied, with silkier tannins than the muscular 2015, giving it a lush, welcoming texture and a smooth, seamless finish redolent of tea and roses.

Even better than I remember from last year, the 2015 Pinot Noir includes 40% whole clusters (about the usual proportion). It's floral and stemmy, then adds huge black cherry fruit and an ample dusting of complex spices. Medium to full-bodied, it's firm and tannic but not unapproachable, with a long, lip-smacking finish.

Still rather firm in texture, the 2014 Pinot Noir offers up leafy, tomato-like notes that are nicely balanced by black cherries and earth. It's medium to full-bodied, then turns velvety on the long finish, with at least another decade of life ahead of it.