The evolved light gold-hued 2002 Chardonnay Talley Vineyard offers elegant, nicely concentrated, but monolithic flavors of honeyed lemons, citrus, and white peaches, a crisp, firm acid profile, good freshness, but a somewhat disjointed, awkward personality. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (805) 937-9801

Rich nutty, toasty and earthy flavors over pears and limes. Big and round, but balanced, with a smooth, long, oaky finish.——W.E.(6/1/2000)—— 89

Shows pretty green-apple, ripe-peach and oak notes in the aroma. Quite forward and likable, with ripe, rich fruit and a slight burn of roasted almond in the finish. Spicy and oaky. Tasted from a prerelease sample.——S.H.(10/1/1999)—— 90

For the second consecutive vintage, I had mixed emotions about Au Bon Climat's Chardonnays. The monolithic 1996 Chardonnay Reserve Talley Vineyard exhibits white peach and tropical fruit scents intermixed with vanillin, spice, and earth. Medium-bodied, with crisp acidity, and a short but sufficient finish, it should drink well for 2-3 years.Tel. (805) 937-9801.

The 1993 Chardonnay Reserve Talley exhibits a clean, intriguing nose of minerals, spice, ripe fruit, and oak. Medium to full-bodied, with admirable concentration, plenty of acidity, and a well-delineated style, this mouthfilling, restrained Chardonnay should drink well for 3-4 years. Au Bon Climat's 1993 Chardonnays are all structured, tightly knit but promising, concentrated wines that can be drunk now, although they will blossom further with another 4-6 months of bottle age. Tel. (805) 937-9801