Opening with touches of flint, toast and exotic spices over a core of baked apples and floral perfume, the 2017 Chardonnay Nuits-Blanches au Bouge is medium-bodied and silky. It bursts with savory flavors, enlivened by energetic acidity and mineral touches, and it finishes very long. What a lovely dichotomy of rich aromas and flavors with a bright, lively structure. 600 cases produced.

The 2016 Chardonnay Nuits-Blanches au Bouge comes from vines planted in 1972 in the Bien Nacido vineyard and spent two years in new wood. It has a soft nose with notes of toast, white peach, quince, Bosc pear, crushed shell and hints of white blossoms and raw almonds. Medium to full-bodied, it features concentrated fruits in the mouth with nutty notions, juicy acidity and a long finish. 850 cases produced.

The lovely 2015 Chardonnay Nuits-Blanches au Bouge wafts from the glass with a youthful bouquet of caramelized citrus rind, buttered apples and smoke, framed by toasty new oak. On the palate, the wine is the richest and ripest of these three whites from Jim Clendenen, sapid and nicely concentrated with a glossy attack and a lingering, apricot-tinged finish.

The 2014 Chardonnay Nuits Blanches Au Bouge gives a gregarious nose of guava, pink grapefruit and honeydew melon with touches of orange blossom and chalk dust. Medium-bodied, with a compelling grip to the texture, it has a lively backbone and long, tropical fruit-laced finish.

Another white brought up in new French oak, the 2012 Chardonnay Nuits Blanches Au Bouge offers classic Chardonnay notes of ripe orchard fruits, honeysuckle, white flowers and toasted bread notes in a medium to full-bodied, balanced and beautifully textured style. It's a gorgeous Chardonnay that has a classic, focused feel and while it was brought up all in new oak, it's perfectly integrated into the wine. Impressive now, this beauty will also age gracefully.