The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Au Sommet comes from well-known Atlas Peak Vineyard at an elevation of 2,100 feet. This is a dense, rich, inky purple-colored wine that offers earthy almost charcoal ember-like notes with plenty of blackberry and cassis fruit. It is youthful and in need of another several years of bottle age as this is a substantial, full-throttle, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon built for long-term cellaring and should easily last a quarter of a century. This is a beauty and should be respected for such. Forget it for another 4-5 years.

This inky blue/purple-colored 2011 Cabernet is chewy, spicy, lush and filled with blackberry, graphite and floral notes. Composed on 97.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2.5% Petit Verdot, it reveals a pleasant underlying earthy/terroir component, but the fruit dominates and this full-bodied wine is rich, textured and impressively endowed. Possessing the best of both worlds — the finesse, terroir and earthiness of France, and the sumptuous fruit, texture and lusciousness of Napa — it will keep for at least two decades. A noteworthy success in this difficult vintage.

The 2010 Au Sommet seems to bring together the best of qualities of 2008 and 2009. It has the fruit and depth of the former and the silkiness of the latter. Juicy dark cherries, plums, smoke, incense and tobacco are some of the aromas and flavors that take shape as this powerful, intense wine shows off its considerable pedigree. Hints of black olives, grilled herbs and licorice add complexity on the finish. This is a gorgeous wine in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. Au Sommet boasts an extraordinary triumvirate of talent – proprietor John Schwartz, winemaker Heidi Barret and viticulturist Jim Barbour. The Au Sommet Cabernets capture plenty of mountain character and personality.Tel. (707) 251-5820; www.ausommetwine.com

A savory mix of loamy earth, dried herb, dried berry, sage and tobacco leaf flavors, this is full-bodied and firming, ending with a return to the savory berry flavors. Best from 2013 through 2023. 600 cases made. –JL