The 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL comes from largely Goldridge soils in parcels owned and managed by the Valdez family (UV being the initials of Ulises Valdez, Aubert's frequent vineyard collaborator, who died in 2018). There are 2,000 cases of this elixir, which offers up classic notes of toasted hazelnuts, white peaches and citrus zest. It's full-bodied, rich and opulent yet contained and controlled, with great silky length and energy. Aubert describes the oak thusly: "The oak is perfect. It just kisses you with a bit of vanilla and cookie dough." The wine is certainly delicious, and thinking back on it, I wonder if my rating is a bit conservative.

Not since Robert Parker himself reviewed this wine have vintages of it scored in this vicinity. When viewed in isolation, the 2020 Chardonnay UV-SL is a thrilling wine; only in the rarified air of Aubert's range could a 94-point rating be considered disappointing. It's more linear and direct than the opulent, flamboyant 2021, with pronounced notes of crushed stone framing lime zest and white peaches. Full-bodied yet zesty, clean and refreshing, it's a laser beam of bright fruit, seemingly without the typical Aubert fleshy curvaceousness. Some drinkers may even prefer it for that stylistic leaning.

A barrel sample, the 2019 Chardonnay UV-SL opens with compelling floral notes—honeysuckle and lime blossoms—over a core of red apples, green guava and honeydew melon with underlying suggestions of baking bread, allspice and marzipan. The full-bodied palate has a pleasant hint of phenolic grip to the texture with seamless acidity supporting the densely laden apple and tropical fruit flavors, finishing long and yeasty/toasty.

The 2018 Chardonnay UV-SL springs from the glass with wonderfully intense notes of candied orange peel, pink grapefruit and white peaches with suggestions of crème caramel and spice cake plus compelling sparks of yuzu zest and wet pebbles. The full-bodied palate is remarkably elegant with a gorgeous satiny texture and fantastic tension delivering a very long, energetic finish.