The 80% new French oak is just barely noticeable in the 2020 Chardonnay Lauren Estate, revealed in the hints of pencil shavings that accent white peach and pineapple—there's tremendous fruit intensity here. Full-bodied and powerful, this blend of four heirloom selections remains exceptionally zesty, clean and fresh, with great length seamlessly allied to considerable richness. For now, I give a slight nod to the 2021 vintage, but this is a similarly terrific wine.

Lauren Vineyard (named after Mark Aubert's daughter) is the first vineyard Mark Aubert ever bought. It is composed of gravel mixed with Goldrich soils and was planted in 1999 to four different clones: two Old Wente clones, Mount Eden and Corton-Charlemagne. The 2019 Chardonnay Lauren Estate (a barrel sample) was fermented and aged in 100% new French oak. Unlike the other 2019 Aubert Chardonnays, this one needs a little swirling and coaxing to reveal the youthfully mute nuances of sea spray, crushed cashews, beeswax and allspice over a core of fresh pineapple, passion fruit, lemon meringue pie and toast. The full-bodied palate delivers the most gorgeous silken texture with tons of opulent spice-laced tropical fruit flavors and a refreshing line, finishing with incredible length and energy. Singularly stunning.

Lauren Vineyard (named after Mark Aubert's daughter) is planted to four different clones: two Old Wente clones, Mount Eden and Corton-Charlemagne. The 2018 Chardonnay Lauren Estate comes barreling out of the glass with a knock-out nose of juicy nectarines, ripe Bosc pears and honeydew melon, backed up by nuances of butterscotch, crystalized ginger, pie crust and honeycomb. Full-bodied, rich, spicy and so, so seductive, the palate is as opulent as it is impeccably poised, finishing with epic length and depth.