The 2011 Etna Rosso Quota 600 Contrada Arcuria is a pure expression of Nerello Mascalese from the north side of the volcano at 600 meters above sea level. That magical combination of high altitude and strong Sicilian luminosity is what ripened grapes without lessening aromas or freshness. This is an extremely elegant wine that shows a good use of oak to round out some of the grape’s harder edges. Exotic spice, dried cherry, wild mountain herbs and a strong dose of volcanic ash contribute to the bouquet. The 2011 vintage shows an especially vibrant quality of red fruit flavors. Drink 2015-2028. The first generation of vintners on Etna, including Salvo Foti, Andrea Franchetti, Marco de Grazia with the Benanti and Cambria families, put the Sicilian volcano on a map of the world’s most promising viticulture zones. Now a second generation is in place: They are the so-called “Etna Boys” with Giuseppe Russo and Alberto Aiello Graci among the main protagonists. Given the historic value of Graci’s ancient cellars (built in an old palmento), important investments made and the overall quality of fruit produced at this estate, the Grace name is tightly linked to Etna excellence. Importer: Massanois, www.massanois.com

The 2010 Etna Rosso Quota 600 (from Arcuria) impresses for gorgeous energy and pure personality. Dark red cherries, mint, flowers, licorice and tobacco are all woven together nicely in this generous, deep wine. Here, too, the wine benefits considerably with time in the glass, which allows for the fruit, acidity and tannin to harmonize nicely. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Alberto Graci’s wines are loaded with character and personality. In particular, the Etna Bianco and Rosso deliver superb quality for the money in a part of Italy where making value-priced wines is rendered virtually impossible by the high farming costs imposed by terrains that are hard to work. Graci bottles without fining or filtration, which means the wines can sometimes appear cloudy, but that is purely cosmetic and no need for concern. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

The 2009 Etna Rosso Quota 600 comes across as a bit ethereal and even a touch fragile, but the wine’s textural finesse compensates for some of the freshness and vibrancy that is missing. Hints of tobacco, crushed flowers and herbs add complexity on the nicely delineated finish. Overall, the 2009 appears to be a vintage best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. Alberto Graci’s wines are loaded with character and personality. In particular, the Etna Bianco and Rosso deliver superb quality for the money in a part of Italy where making value-priced wines is rendered virtually impossible by the high farming costs imposed by terrains that are hard to work. Graci bottles without fining or filtration, which means the wines can sometimes appear cloudy, but that is purely cosmetic and no need for concern. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769