The 2014 Etna Rosso Serra della Contessa (made with 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio) comes from a vineyard on the east side of the volcano located 500 meters above sea level. The vines are more than 100 years old and planted on their original root stock. Some 7,000 bottles were made. This wine is distinguished by the elegance of its aromas. Wild cherry, cranberry, lilac and pressed violets emerge from the bouquet. The wine also shows a strong volcanic identity with crush stone and smoke.

The 2013 Etna Rosso Serra della Contessa is a unique wine from a unique vineyard site located 500 meters above sea level on the southern Viagrande flank of the volcano. It does not fit squarely into the Etna Rosso mold. It flaunts those differences with pride. This wine is based on Nerello Mascalese, with a smaller part Nerello Cappuccio. There is a pronounced balsam element with some spice and dark herb that add an almost savory or meaty quality that you don't get from wines made on the north side of the volcano.

The 2011 Etna Rosso Serra della Contessa steals the show among this line-up of new vintages from Benanti. This iconic Etna red doesn't always live up to its landmark reputation, but this vintage is spot-on. The intensity and the clarity of the bouquet is the first thing you notice. It reveals linear and tight aromas of dried cherry, licorice, crushed stone and balsam herb. The wine delivers these characteristics with the upmost grace and elegance. It promises a long cellar evolution ahead. Monte Serre is the name of the vineyard in the Viagrande township.

The 2008 Etna Rosso Serra della Contessa is rather one-dimensional in this vintage. There is good juiciness in the fruit, but most of the wine's appeal is up-front, as it trails off rather quickly. Plums, spices and herbs linger on the finish. Serra della Contessa is Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from vines that are over 100 years old. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. This is a solid set of wines from Benanti, although there are fewer thrilling wines this year than is often the case.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

The 2006 Etna Rosso Serra della Contessa shows terrific energy and vibrancy in its dark fruit. Medium in body, the Serra della Contessa impresses for its balance and finesse. Flowers, spices, French oak and a burst of red berries inform the long, round finish. Serra della Contessa is Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from vines that are over 100 years old. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Lamoremio that is already a touch forward and probably not built for the long haul. Still, it should drink beautifully for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Benanti is a reference-point producer for beautiful wines from the Etna and Pachino, two of Sicily’s most privileged spots. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with any of these new releases. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524