The 2017 Etna Bianco is a delicately perfumed and veiled expression of Carricante with soft mineral notes, white flower and easy peach or nectarine aromas. However, the true protagonist here are those carefully measured volcanic tones of ash and smoke. The bouquet on this vintage is slightly more neutral, but it will flesh out with a year or more of bottle age. Serve it with a chicken-and-herb couscous. Some 40,000 bottles were made.

You get a pretty load of primary fruit with the 2016 Etna Bianco. Carricante gives off aromas of pear and white fruit with flinty mineral at the back. This is an academic interpretation of the grape from the east side of the volcano in Milo (with vineyards from 700 to 800 meters above sea level) that favors richness and structure. Some 50,000 bottles were produced. This wine has been produced since 1994.

Although I am a longstanding fan of Benanti's wines, I have never previously reviewed this wine for publication (despite the fact it has been in production since 1994). The 2014 Etna Bianco is a pure expression of Carricante, with fruit from the East flank of the volcano in Milo. Vineyards here are located 700 to 800 meters above sea level. A second portion of fruit comes from Santa Maria di Licodia (at 950 meters above the Mediterranean). The wine opens to pretty and soft layers of stone fruit and pear. It boasts a very immediate, refreshing and drinkable style.