When I was in northern California the week before Thanksgiving, the rumors that were swirling about the impending sale of Beringer by its international corporate owner, Nestle, to an investment consortium proved true when the sale was announced. Let's hope the new owners maintain the status quo, as Beringer has had an exceptional run of highly successful wines since the mid-eighties. Considering the diversity of wines produced, I would be hard pressed to single out another winery that has enjoyed as much success as Beringer has over the last decade.With the exception of a chunky, overly-oaked Pinot Noir, it is impossible to find anything less than top-flight at Beringer, with many of the firm's wines undeniably special. Beringer is also increasing their tiny production of Viognier. The 1994 Viognier Hudson Ranch must be among California's top half dozen wines produced from this fickle varietal. One-third of the wine is aged in new oak for definition, resulting in a honeysuckle and peach-scented wine with Viognier's opulence well-displayed. The oak makes its presence known, but it is not intrusive. It is a fresh, chewy wine for drinking over the next 1-2 years. Beringer has once again proven that they are one of the qualitative leaders in California as they continue to turn out reference point wines - not only for California, but the world. Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-5054

The 1992 Viognier Hudson Ranch is a stunningly exotic Viognier, with a huge, kinky perfume of honeyed apricots and peaches, not to mention copious quantities of spring flowers and smoky new oak. Full-bodied, yet buttressed by good acidity, the wine is sensationally concentrated and intense. It is an immensely impressive Viognier. Only 100 cases were produced, and it is only available for sale at the winery.Beringer continues to make a strong case for being California's most popular and hottest winery.Tel. (707) 963-7115.