The 2008 PINOT NOIR was oak aged for 14 months. Fairly light in color, this is tightly wound on the palate with well integrated tannins and fairly high acidity. There is little evidence of oaky flavor, but the grape characteristics are not as yet fully evolved; it takes a good 60-90 minutes before the fruit starts to assert itself. A slight earthy note pops up with time, too. If it does not always seem like the most classic Pinot Noir, once past that, it is elegant, tasty and most, I suspect, will find it surprisingly good. It grew on me with some air. There were 540 cases produced. Drink now-2017. Campolargo is an interesting winery in Bairrada that presents a less traditional face with its various small production bottlings. Manuel Campolargo makes things that are a bit different than the usual fare—Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux blends, unusual monovarietals and the like. Modern Bairrada isn’t just about Baga—although they make one of those, too. The wines often provide some nice value, as evidenced by some of the offerings this issue, and the off-the-beaten-track wines often hit the mark.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155

The 2004 PINOT NOIR is something you don’t see very often in Portugal—Pinot Noir. The front of the wine, by the way, simply has a logo; only the back indicates that this Tinto is all Pinot Noir. The wine is pale, with little color at this point in its life and a hint of game on the bouquet. It is bright and elegant, typical in style. In flavor, the wine is rather subdued and muted, already throwing off an occasional tertiary note. This is pleasant enough, but it won’t be going anywhere good in the near future. It should hold a few years, but I’d drink it sooner rather than later for best results. Drink now-2011. Campolargo is an attractive estate in Bairrada which often focuses more on international grapes and other Portuguese varieties rather than the traditional Baga, making a Bordeaux blend (Calda Bordaleza) and even a Pinot Noir. They are making pretty good use of those international varieties, producing some interesting wines containing Cabernet Sauvignon in particular. Manuel Campolargo, the owner, presents a large array of wines at different price points, often in big, distinctive bottles with long names. I wasn’t so sure how I felt about this estate from early tastings, but I think they have improved and are going to improve even more. There is always a lot of personality evident here, both in terms of whimsy and wine.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155