Inky and raw, this hearty Montepulciano offers notes of black olive, blackberry, Asian spice, molasses, maple syrup and cola. It’s spicy and dense in the mouth and has gritty, solid tannins. A wine this big can only be paired with succulent cuts of beef or aged cheeses. ——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 89

The 1993 Cagiolo, a single-vineyard-designated wine, reveals cherry fruit and almond extract in its nose, medium body, and a light but refreshing, zesty, tangy character. As I have pointed out for a number of years, top-class bargains can be found in Abruzzi, a region situated in the southern Italy, along the Adriatic coast. The wines produced are named after the grape of the same name - Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Cantina Tollo's wines are pleasant, well-made, clean offerings that represent bargains given today's super-high wine prices. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620