An IGT wine from Basilicata, the 2018 L'Atto is a popular choice that is celebrated locally. The wine represents a pure expression of Aglianico grapes that have been worked in such a way as to preserve the primary character of the fruit. Indeed, you get lots of cherry and black currant here. You also get distinct volcanic tones of scorched earth and campfire ash. This is a simple red wine from Southern Italy with plenty of character and power. Pair this with a Podolica steak, from a breed of domestic cattle from Southern Italy. Some 150,000 bottles were produced.

This is the entry-level Aglianico from Cantine del Notaio. The 2014 L'Atto delivers great bang for your buck. The bouquet offers depth and intensity with savory notes of spice, ash, scorched earth and dried berries. Aglianico is never very strong when it comes to offering fruit-driven primary aromas. Instead, even in its youth, this mighty grape from southern Italy offers more sophistication and nobility than you might expect. It is never outwardly fruity. Instead, Aglianico reveals a fundamentally austere, dry and savory side.

The 2013 L'Atto is a pure expression of Aglianico from the tufo and limestone-rich soils of the Vulture volcano. This wine opens a very pretty window onto the variety with an easy, no-fuss approach. Red cherry, blackberry and cassis are on full display. At the back are dusty mineral tones of pencil shavings and flint that recall its volcanic environment. The winemaking is absolutely pristine and focused. L'Atto offers a high drinkability factor and the grape's natural tannins would pair nicely next to a thick cut of succulent steak.

The 2009 L'Atto flows from the glass with layers of perfumed fruit. It shows lovely balance in an understated, feminine style of Aglianico that is immensely appealing, especially for near-term drinking. It, too, is an excellent value. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Cantine del Notaio is one of the leading estates in Basilicata. Consulting oenologist Luigi Moio shapes wines of extraordinary elegance and finesse. Importer: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2008 L’Atto is simply a joyous glass of wine. This juicy Aglianico impresses for its round texture and soft, enveloping personality. Some of the wilder elements of Aglianico have been tamed, but the wine’s sheer plumpness and fruit are impossible not to admire. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. This is a fabulous set of new releases from Cantina del Notaio, one of Basilicata’s leading estates. From top to bottom, these may very well be the finest wines I have ever tasted here. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119