The 2012 Carodorum único comes in a heavy, oversized bottle and with an equally bulky price tag, but the wine is not as massive as you might expect. There are flowers, blood oranges and red berry aromas under the thick layer of spicy and smokey notes, which make it quite attractive. It's sourced from a single plot of vines planted 98 years ago on sandy soils with plenty of rolling stones; it fermented in small, 500-liter vats and matured in new barriques for 30 months. Again, the oak treatment sounds oversized, but the wine has plenty of natural strength and concentration, and seems to be able to take it. This is a Sumo wrestler. Hold it a bit for the edges to get polished. 1,390 bottles produced.

The 2010 Carodorum Unico comes from 100+-year-old vines in the "La Cascajera" parcel and sees 30 months in new French oak. The bouquet, predictably, says much more about the cooper than what I am sure is a precious plot of vines. The wood dominates the full-bodied palate, subjugating the fruit to a secondary role when it should be the star. The finish is rich and heady, but it deserves more finesse and complexity. This is simply overdone. These wines are made under the supervision of Carmen Rodriguez Mendez, while her two sons oversee the Lui & William line. Each has a different importer. Importer: The Artisan Collection, NY; tel. (718) 596-0722