The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is excellent, opening in the glass with a complex bouquet of crisp Anjou pear, lime zest, pastry cream and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and powerful, with a multidimensional, concentrated core, a racy spine of acidity and a long, saline finish. This structured, serious Montmains is likely to prove the most long-lived premier cru in the Moreau-Naudet cellar this year.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains (which hails from the lieux-dits of Vaux Miolot and Butteaux) offers up aromas of white flowers, green apple and bread dough. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, glossy and concentrated, with a deep, blocky profile and good underlying tension. It's a definite success.