The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur has something airy about the nose, touches of melon and citrus peel, a subtle mineralité showing through with time. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, quite precise on the mid-palate but needing a touch more mineral nerve on the finish. This is a respectable Valmur, if not the best that Chablis produced in 2014.

The debut 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur comes from a parcel of 50-year-old vines. It has a taut citric nose that at the moment demonstrates more mineral notes than the Bougros. The palate is crisp and taut with orange peel and dried pineapple notes, although the finish needs more focus and precision. It's a bit like a pupil losing their concentration near the end of an exam. Still, let's see what next vintage brings.