While their lesser wines have cuvee names, what is in effect the Lurton's grand vin from Chateau des Erles is labeled simply with the name of the Chateau and the wine's appellation, and the current offering - reflecting their intention to give this cuvee bottle age before release - is a 2004 Fitou, from somewhat older Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan vines that their Cuvee des Ardoises, and aged in largely new demi-muids. As in 2008, 2004 was dry but not torrid, and harvest was late, benefitting from the jump start to vine assimilation of a bit of early September rain. Intense aromas of resin, soy, wild cherry and black raspberry foreshadow a palate saturated with concentrated, tart-edged berry fruit seemingly suffused with crushed stone, and possessed of a saline savor that lends some mouthwatering satisfaction to a finish otherwise marked by slight warmth and gum numbing tannin. A faint aura of game hangs over the whole performance here, which I suspect will become more evident as the wine matures. I would anticipate this being well worth following for another 2-3 years, though it is likely to become more brooding in personality and certainly will never be charming. I'd have to register more primary juiciness at this stage to be convinced that it had longer aging potential.Imported by Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105

A J. F. Lurton family property, Chateau des Erles is turning out at their top end (albeit at relatively hefty prices for these appellations) impressive wines from old Grenache and Carignan with Syrah. The Lurton’s 2003 Fitou leads with pungent, smoky mineral dust, dried and jammy blackberry, and black pepper. Formidably-concentrated, pungent, and long on stones and minerals in its finish, its faintly drying combination of shriveled fruit suggestions and big tannins, slightly diminishes its appeal, but is not unusual for the vintage. I look forward to tasting what should be an outstanding 2004.Imported by Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105