Lots to admire in this Cab. It’s bone dry and rich in blackberry and cedar flavors, with overtones of mocha, anise and toast, and is very tannic. Clearly made in a leaner style than today’s high-alcohol cult style, it trades some richness for elegance and finesse. This is a wine that puts its bet on cellaring. Try after 2013.——S.H.(9/1/2010)—— 93

Clos du Val has gone as far as they intend to in order to make a ripe, opulent Cab in the modern Napa cult style. But they remain faithful to their Bordeaux-inspired house style, which is leaner and more tannic than most. The result is a natural cellar candidate, with an official alcohol of only 13.5%. Rich in blackberries and black currants, this wine should easily develop over the next 10–15 years.——S.H.(12/15/2009)—— 94