Clos du Val stubbornly hews to its traditional style, a dry, tannic and earthy Cabernet with inflections of blackberries and black currants. It’s the opposite of the modern style. The alcohol level, for example, is a tender 13.5% by volume. The wine will develop for quite a few years, without becoming profound.——S.H.(3/1/2012)—— 88

A bit burly in tannins, with a dry, sandpapery mouthfeel. But that doesn’t stop the blackberry, black cherry and currant fruit from shining through, or put a damper on the sweet, toasty oak notes. Doesn’t feel like an ager, so the tannins are here to stay, but a good steak will wrestle them into submission.——S.H.(9/1/2010)—— 90