It is one of the mysteries of viticulture how a vineyard in the chilly lower Carneros, better suited for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, can consistently produce such a glorious Cabernet Sauvignon. The little knoll it grows on seems to be a well-drained banana belt. The ’03, like its predecessors, is rich and balanced in black currant, cherry, milk chocolate and sweet herb flavors, and is soft enough for immediate drinking. But it should develop well for many years.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 92

This shows crisp acids and fine balance. It’s huge in blackberry and cherry fruit, but has the structural integrity and finesse that, quite simply, make it a very great Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2015. ——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 96

The winery’s Calistoga Cabernet is lush and opulent. This one is much firmer in acids and tannins, a more structured wine, although equally oaky, but it needs cellaring to show its best. Explodes with black currant and chocolate flavors, and should improve for quite a few years. Drink 2008–2015. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 91

You can smell the new oak a mile away, powerful in char and smoky vanilla. Then the cassis hits you and the mind thinks, Great Cab. Rich, ripe and intense, dripping with blackcurrants and chocolate, but with firm tannins. Should be a keeper for years, but hard to resist its immediate charms.——S.H.(3/1/2005)—— 92