Though Columbia Crest is widely available, the reserve tier is not. Just a few hundred cases of this reserve were made, done in an oaky, buttered popcorn style. Think California with more acidity.——P.G.(12/31/2009)—— 88

This is a bigger and riper bottle all around than any other Columbia Crest Chardonnays. You get more power—big tropical fruit flavors and even more of the buttered popcorn character than defines the entire lineup—but the tradeoff is that there is less detail, more alcohol, and an over-riding simplicity that risks becoming boring. Grab the H3 if you want complexity; this bottle is for those who want the power.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 88

The 2005 Chardonnay Reserve was barrel-fermented and went through malolactic fermentation. It spent 16 months in barrel with lees stirring. The nose is a bit more sophisticated but on the palate the wine comes off as slightly superficial because of the lack of depth. Columbia Crest, owned by Ste-Michelle Wine Estates, has long been known for the quality of its value priced wines.Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

Here is another fine effort from Columbia Crest that captures some spice and keeps the fruit bright and fresh. Apple and citrus flavors, sharp and tangy, run up against lots of barrel toast. The finish is loaded with baking spices and lightly touched with candied orange peel.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 89

The 2004 Chardonnay Reserve comes from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. It was barrel fermented and went through malolactic fermentation while spending 16 months in oak with lees stirring. The nose offers toast, butterscotch, baked apple, and pear aromas. That leads to a full-bodied Chardonnay with a supple, creamy texture, ripe flavors, and good length. Greater depth would have resulted in a higher score. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com