Partly fermented in barrel (64%) and partly fermented in stainless steel (36%), the 2020 Chardonnay Grand Estates opens with the aromas of sweet citrus and pomaceous character before notes of a rocky essence and hints of oak sway from the glass. Medium-bodied, the Chardonnay offers a stony and mineral essence before ending with a straightforward finish and lingering almond on the aftertaste.

A smoking value, the 2012 Chardonnay Grand Estates Unoaked gives up a crisp, clean feel, with lime, citrus blossom, green herbs and lively mineral qualities all coming together nicely in the glass. Medium-bodied, fresh and focused, it’s delicious stuff to enjoy over the coming 2-3 years. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbiacrest.com

The 2009 Chardonnay Grand Estates was 100% barrel-fermented, went through full malolactic fermentation and was aged sur lie with weekly batonnage, a huge investment in labor for 250,000 cases of wine selling for $12. The nose offers up hints of oak, pear, apple and tropical fruit aromas. Smooth-textured, spicy, and well-balanced, this lengthy effort over-delivers in a big way. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington's largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine.www.columbia-crest.com

This mid-level Chardonnay from Columbia Crest has a broad fan base, and is a popular by-the-glass pour. It is soft and plush, the fruit seems to float on a bed of puffy toast. Buttered apples, pastry and a finishing smack of green apple acidity leave you wanting the next sip.——P.G.(7/1/2011)—— 87