I had a slight preference for the Ongrie (formerly known as Terres Boisées) over the Fleur du Crussol. The 2015 Saint Peray Ongrie offers notes of toasted hazelnuts, Golden Delicious apples, cinnamon, clove, and baked pineapple. It's full-bodied, complex and flavorful yet finishes with a burst of fresh citrus and brine.

A classic Marsanne with its rich, sautéed apple and brioche-like aromas and flavors, the 2014 Saint Péray Terres Boisées (100% Marsanne aged 13 months in 30% new French oak) is medium-bodied, rounded, and beautifully textured on the palate, with solid freshness and purity as well as plenty of richness. Drink it over the coming couple of years.

Bottles one year ago, the 2013 St Péray Terres Boisées was raised all in 30% new barrels, and the estate is moving more and more to large 400-liter barrels for their whites. It is a beautiful effort that has both richness and freshness in its caramelized peach, pineapple and quince-driven bouquet. This gives way to a layered, ripe and textured white that will drink nicely for 3-4 years.

Also impressive, with lots of honeyed melon, apricot jam and citrus, the 2012 Saint Peray Terres Boisees is medium to full-bodied, rich and textured, yet like the Fleur de Crussol, it stays remarkably fresh and pure. Drink it over the coming 4-5 years. One of the leading estates in Cornas, Alain Voge, with more and more assistance from Alberic Mazoyer (formerly at Chapoutier), produces some of the most impressive, concentrated and rich wines of the appellation. Owning 17 acres in Cornas, spread across 12 different plots, and 15 acres in Saint Peray, this estate produces two whites from Saint Peray and up to three Cornas in any given vintage. In Cornas, the first cuvee is the Les Chailles, which comes from vines planted in the mid-1980s. Aged 18 months in neutral oak, it is the most forward and approachable of the releases. The old vine Vieilles Vignes cuvee sees more time in oak (some of which can be new) and comes from vines averaging 30 to90 years in age. Lastly, the tiny production and top wine, the Les Vieilles Fontaines, is a vineyard selection (normally from the Les Cotes and Chaillot lieux-dits) that sees up to 24 months in 15% new oak. Both the Vieilles Vignes and Les Vieilles Fontaines are serious, concentrated wines that will benefit from short-term cellaring. As a whole, vinification here is semi-modern, with plenty of destemming, and while the wines shows gorgeous polish and purity, they never lose their Cornas soul. These wines need to be on every reader’s short list. Importer: Citadel Trading Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 245-2844

Also offering ample golden and tropical fruits, as well as good minerality and floral qualities, the 2011 Saint Peray Terres Boisees is medium-bodied, nicely focused and stays clean and refreshing on the finish. Drink it over the coming 3-5 years. One of the leading estates in Cornas, Alain Voge, with more and more assistance from Alberic Mazoyer (formerly at Chapoutier), produces some of the most impressive, concentrated and rich wines of the appellation. Owning 17 acres in Cornas, spread across 12 different plots, and 15 acres in Saint Peray, this estate produces two whites from Saint Peray and up to three Cornas in any given vintage. In Cornas, the first cuvee is the Les Chailles, which comes from vines planted in the mid-1980s. Aged 18 months in neutral oak, it is the most forward and approachable of the releases. The old vine Vieilles Vignes cuvee sees more time in oak (some of which can be new) and comes from vines averaging 30 to90 years in age. Lastly, the tiny production and top wine, the Les Vieilles Fontaines, is a vineyard selection (normally from the Les Cotes and Chaillot lieux-dits) that sees up to 24 months in 15% new oak. Both the Vieilles Vignes and Les Vieilles Fontaines are serious, concentrated wines that will benefit from short-term cellaring. As a whole, vinification here is semi-modern, with plenty of destemming, and while the wines shows gorgeous polish and purity, they never lose their Cornas soul. These wines need to be on every reader’s short list. Importer: Citadel Trading Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 245-2844