The dense, full-bodied 2019 Cotes du Rhone Les Garrigues manages to be that without ever seeming heavy, overdone or chocolaty. Vibrant purple raspberries mark the nose and palate, lingering elegantly on the finish and picking up hints of wild thyme and bay leaf. I'd rather drink this than some underachieving producer's Chateauneuf, and it should be uncommonly long-lived for a C?tes du Rh?ne.

The 100% Grenache 2017 Cotes du Rhone Les Garrigues was aged mostly in foudre, with 20% put into demi-muids. Black cherries and licorice mark the nose, while the full-bodied palate is supremely supple, verging on creamy in texture. Hints of earth and dried spices chime in on the long, silky finish. It should drink well for at least another 3-4 years.

There was only one 32-hectoliter foudre (now bottled) of the 2016 Cotes du Rhone Les Garrigues, an all-Grenache cuvée vinified with 50% whole clusters. It's floral and herbal on the nose, with bold flavors of blackberries and licorice. Full-bodied and richly concentrated, it boasts supple tannins balanced by hints of brine and fresh acids. It's easily the equal of many Chateauneufs, and the price has crept up to reflect that.

Another selection from the C?tes du Rh?ne Villages, the 2015 Cotes du Rhone Les Garrigues is an all-Grenache cuvée that takes ripeness a touch too far for this taster. The black cherry and chocolate notes are rich and flavorful but accompanied by alcoholic warmth. Drink it over the next couple of years.