The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques delivers aromas of cassis, sweet berries, spices and soil, framed by a creamy patina of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and concentrated, it's layered and seamless, with a fleshy, sensual profile and an expansive finish.

Powerful and dramatic, Rousseau's 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques bursts from the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis and plums mingled with notions of grilled meats, dark chocolate, exotic spices and loamy soil—all framed by cedary new oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's layered and elegantly muscular, with a deep core of fruit, powdery tannins and bright acids.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques has turned out brilliantly in bottle. Unwinding in the glass with notes of red berries, cassis and peonies, mingled with hints of woodsmoke, raw cocoa, orange rind and exotic spices. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, structured around ripe, powdery tannins, it's layered and lively, maintaining impeccable balance in this warm vintage. Long and penetrating, this is more tightly wound in bottle than it was from barrel—something that bodes very well for its long-term evolution.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques is being matured in 80% new oak, and it was the one wine in the cellar that was quite strongly marked by its time in barrel when I tasted it. Behind the prominent framing of cedary oak lurks a pretty bouquet of red and black berry fruit, orange rind, rich soil tones and peony. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tangy and open-knit with a vanillin-inflected finish. I suspect that the final assemblage will be more integrated than the single barrel, but in its structure and overall profile, this looks to be reminiscent of Rousseau's 2007 Clos Saint-Jacques.