The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is also showing well, exhibiting notions of orange rind, confit lemon and green apple, followed by a full-bodied, layered palate that's racier and chalkier than the fleshier, blockier Valmur.

Even with the advantage of frost protection, Moreau only achieved yields of 18 hectoliters per hectare with his 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, but it was enough to mature half of the cuvée in tank and half in barrel. The wine unwinds slowly in the glass with aromas of wheat toast, beeswax, green apple, ripe citrus fruits and almond paste, followed by a full-bodied, satiny and racy palate that's quite taut and fine-boned, with a penetrating, chalky finish.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos reveals aromas of lemon oil, waxy citrus rind, nutmeg and subtle new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, textural and chalky, with good depth and chewy extract, but without the completeness and dimension of a great vintage. It's a Clos that will drink well with just a year or two of bottle age.

When I tasted the 2015 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos from barrel, I opined that it was not showing at its best. Now in bottle, it reveals a well-defined bouquet with scents of white flowers, granite, smoke and a subtle walnut scent emerging with time. The palate is very well balanced with good body and presence in the mouth, fresh and mineral driven with a tightly wound finish that suggests it will provide 15-20 years drinking pleasure.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, the 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos by Christian Moreau has a pretty bouquet, not the most complex within Les Clos this vintage, but detailed and with attractive flint aromas. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with pleasant salinity, a subtle marine note becoming more palpable as it broadens out on the satisfying, strikingly saline finish. This is a quality Le Clos that should develop with style in the glass.