As usual, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos is richer and broader than the domaine's regular Les Clos, revealing a lavish bouquet of peaches, honeycomb, yellow orchard fruit, fresh pastry and white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, though balanced by lively acids and concluding with a penetrating finish. The choice between the two is more a matter of taste than of quality.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos is richer and more dramatic than the regular Les Clos, revealing aromas of Meyer lemon, honeycomb, wheat toast, anise and subtle toasty new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, textural and gourmand, more obviously marked by recently used barrels. It's a fat, fleshy expression of Chablis that should drink well over the coming decade.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos des Hospices has a touch more vigor and detail on the nose compared to the regular les Clos this year with scents of pink grapefruit, granite and a touch of rose petal emerging with time. The palate is very well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, tensile and energetic with real precision and detail on the mineral-driven finish. This is a wonderful, sophisticated Chablis that lingers in the mouth a couple of minutes after the wine has departed. Superb.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, Moreau's 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos des Hospices has a clean and precise bouquet with flint and chalk aromas complementing the citrus fruit. The palate is fresh and vibrant with plenty of salinity, great tension and poise. It just delivers everything that a Chablis Les Clos should, offering hints of fresh ginger and a pinch of white pepper on the finish. This is an outstanding Chablis that will give immense pleasure. I initially thought that the regular bottling of their Les Clos would be the pick of the two, but now in bottle, the Clos des Hospices seems to have decided that it should be the "guv'nor". I would still afford it another two or three years in bottle.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Brouilland. The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos Les Hospices has another reduced bouquet like the regular bottling, but there is real complexity and nuance here that I believe will be delivered with respectable bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tension and energy, crisp and tensile with citrus fruit, spice, smoke and flinty aromas that dominate the finish that feels long and satisfying. Tasted May 2016.