The 2011 Meursault (Les Vireuils) has an engaging bouquet of fresh apricot, passion fruit and flint, later a subtle hint of white chocolate that lends panache. The palate is very well-balanced with a fine line of acidity and grilled walnut, almond and fresh lemon all vying for attention. Long in the mouth with a persistent finish, this is a very fine Meursault Villages, as one has come to expect from this address. Drink 2015-2030. As I had anticipated, Raphael Coche requested that I visit after he had clocked off for the day. No problem – I’d rather he focuses on the vines than appease the demands of us “pesky” wine writers. This was actually my first visit to the domaine, which seems odd because it is many moons since I first fell in love with Jean-Francois Coche’s wines at a memorable tasting in London in the late 1990s. Since then, Raphael, still in his early thirties, has deftly slipped into his father’s shoes. Tall and the spitting image of papa, I had been forewarned that Raphael can be reticent at times. On the contrary, he was refreshingly garrulous, chatting not only about his own wines but enthusing about Pomerol after I espied a dusty bottle of 1987 Petrus incongruously perched on the shelf. In my opinion, and indeed others’, Raphael has subtly tweaked the style and perhaps even improved on what was already a winning formula. Recent vintages seem more consistent, perhaps even more aligned with their respective terroirs. On this visit, we tasted through most of the domaine’s 2011s that had been bottled the previous spring and are currently on the market. Raphael spoke enthusiastically about the 2011 vintage and rightly so. There is a natural sensibility to these wines, an approachability that is not always evident in their wines, proceeding to compare them to the 2001 vintage. My experience of this domaine’s wines means that I am happy to put long drinking windows for even the village crus, which I often reward a decade in bottle. Personally, I have found less premature oxidation at this address than others, in particular with respect to younger vintages, though nobody is totally immune. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524 and Berkmann Wines in the UK.

The 2010 Meursault (Vireuils Dessus) is quite a bit more pointed and mineral-driven in style. It is the most horizontal and energetic of the three villages level Meursaults. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Raphael Coche-Dury is just past his 30th birthday, but he has already spent more than half his life working at the family’s illustrious domaine. It is quite evident Raphael Coche intends to follow his father footsteps, so the future seems to be in very capable hands. Coche describes 2010 as a cold vintage, but one with a lot of concentration because of the extensive coulure (shatter). Conditions in 2009 were pretty much the diametrical opposite. August was very warm, which caused challenges as sugars mounted quickly, but the fruit was healthy. Coche told me he wasn’t a huge fan of the vintage, but found the wines improved as they freshened up after the malos. Coche-Dury fans know the estate bottles three separate Meursaults at the villages level which are unfortunately not identified on the labels, which personally I find a bit frustrating. Qualitatively the three wines are quite similar, but their personalities are not. I have provided notes on all three of the 2010s and two of the 2009s, but readers will have to check with their suppliers to know for certain which wine they are buying. The 2009s should drink well relatively early and appear to have the stuffing to also age very well. The 2010s may very well prove to be nearly immortal. Let me just say I can’t wait to taste these wines in finished form from bottle. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Comparing the 2009 against the 2010, the former is more open, displaying subtle white chocolate scents that are infused into the citric fruit and apple-blossom aromas. Leaving the glass to one side, it develops an attractive flint scent after 15 minutes. The palate is supremely well balanced with outstanding mineralite, though it does not possess quite the same weight as the 2010. Still, it offers outstanding focus and tension, while there is a lovely touch of spice on the aftertaste. Drink now-2020. Tasted March 2013.