Aromas of green apple, freshly baked bread, mint and beeswax introduce the 2020 Bouzeron, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive wine with a lively spine of acidity, chalky structure and a saline finish. After the unusually rich, concentrated 2019, the 2020 marks a return to a more classically proportioned Bouzeron from de Villaine.

The 2019 Bouzeron is a particular success, mingling aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and clear honey with hints of beeswax and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, layered and unusually concentrated, it's a seamless, structured wine, with lively acids and a long, intense finish. Attractive though this is today, I can't wait to see it with a decade or so on the clock.

Aromas of green apple, pear, white flowers and beeswax introduce the 2018 Bouzeron, a medium-bodied, racy wine with an elegantly satiny attack, bright acids and a long, precise finish. This is a touch more demonstrative out of the gates than the 2017 rendition, but it retains plenty of cut in this warm year and should age well.

The 2017 Bouzeron is showing very well after a year in bottle, unfurling in the glass with scents of fresh peaches, white flowers, beeswax and green apples. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and lively, with good concentration and volume at the core, chalky structuring extract and a pure finish. This is well worth attention.

The 2016 Bouzeron exhibits a pretty bouquet of honeyed apples and spring flowers, followed by a medium-bodied, bright palate that's pure and precise. I suspect it will put on weight with a year or two in bottle. It's dependably long lived, so don't be afraid to follow bottles for a decade.