Offering up aromas of pear, sweet stone fruit, fresh mint and white flowers, the 2021 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with an impressively textural, muscular profile for the vintage.

Another success is the 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or, a medium to full-bodied, chiseled and tightly wound wine evocative of pear, lime zest, freshly baked bread and toasted almonds. Bright and concentrated, I suspect it will flesh out with further élevage to offer a more textural, enveloping profile in bottle.

Mingling aromas of pear, green apple and citrus oil with hints of white flowers and toasted nuts, the 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or is medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, with a deep and concentrated core girdled by bright acids and underpinned by chalky dry extract. Long and penetrating, this is promising.

As usual, the 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or, which derives from clay-rich soils, makes for quite a contrast after the Bouchères, where the soils are richer in active calcium. Unwinding to reveal aromas of citrus oil, fresh peach, white flowers and a deft touch of minty new oak, the wine is medium to full-bodied, muscular and incisive, with a deeper and more structured profile than the ethereal Bouchères.

Offering up aromas of buttered apples, pear, praline and beeswax, the 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or is medium to full-bodied, broad-shouldered and reserved, with impressive power and chalky extract, balanced by succulent acids. It's one of the more backward wines in the Lafon cellar this year.