Fragrant notes of garrigue and red raspberries emerge on the nose of Frédéric Roméro's 2018 Rasteau. For a Rasteau, it's charming, being medium to full-bodied, silky-textured and refreshing on the finish, not a super ripe, chocolaty blockbuster. It should drink well for several more years, although there's no reason to defer gratification.

The 2017 Rasteau comes from vines 15-30 years of age. It's dark, rich and chocolaty, with plum and spice cake notes carried on a full-bodied, creamy-textured palate. It's long and lush on the finish, where it folds in attractive hints of licorice. It should drink well for 6-7 years.

Even the young-vine Rasteau (from ten to 30 years old) is terrific in 2016, boasting wonderful black cherry fruit. The 2016 Rasteau is 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre, yielding a full-bodied wine that's dense and rich, velvety and long but best suited for near-term drinking.

Even the 2015 Rasteau merits a 90-point score. Made from the estate's youngest vines, it's nevertheless rich and intense, with bold cherry fruit and a bit of spice. Drink it over the next 5 years.

More structured and concentrated, the 2011 Rasteau checks in as a blend of 80% Grenache and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvedre. Aged all in stainless steel, it has copious smoky black fruits, ground pepper, edgy minerality and leather qualities to go with a medium-bodied, rich and nicely textured profile on the palate. Holding onto bright acidity and fine tannin, it should be consumed over the coming 4-5 years. Drink now-2018. One of the top producers in Rasteau, Domaine la Soumade is run by the father son pair of Andre and Frederic Romeo. Importer: Serge Dore Selections, Chappaqua, NY; tel. (914) 861-9206