The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Montceau is lovely, wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus zest, white flowers and pear, framed by a discreet touch of youthful reduction. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and chiseled, it's textural and concentrated, with good tension at the core and a long, precise finish.

Aromas of Anjou pear, green apple, white flowers, mint, clear honey and oyster shell—a rare nuance in this vintage—introduce Colin's 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Montceau, a medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional wine that's concentrated and incisive, concluding with a long, saline finish.

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Montceau is also performing well from bottle, mingling aromas of pear, pomelo, orange oil, fresh bread and ginger. Medium to full-bodied, racy and tensile, with fine depth at the core but a more open, giving profile than the 2017 vintage, this will offer a broad drinking window.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Montceau is showing beautiful, unwinding in the glass with a bouquet of orange oil, lemon zest, pear and dried white flowers that's more youthfully reticent than the En Remilly, framed by a light touch of reduction. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, chiseled and tensile, with a beautifully chalky, mineral profile. This is well worth seeking out, and it will reward a bit of bottle age.