Colin was able to acquire the 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru in grapes this year, so it was pressed at his winery following his methods. Mingling aromas of citrus oil and honeyed pears with hints of fresh bread, hazelnuts and paraffin wax, it's full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a racy but enveloping profile and a long, saline finish.

Offering up notes of ripe citrus fruits, pear, buttery pastry, smoke and toasted nuts, Pierre-Yves Colin's 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, layered and tightly wound, with racy acids and chalky structuring extract. In barrel, unracked and maturing on its lees when I tasted it, I look forward to seeing how it turns out in bottle.

Notes of sweet white flowers, pear, green apple and fresh bread introduce the 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, layered and satiny wine that's fleshy but incisive, with a nicely controlled, racy profile, concluding with a saline, mineral finish.

In terms of concentration and complexity, the 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru cannot quite match the Batard this year, but it is a lovely wine, wafting from the glass with aromas of lemon oil, hazelnut cream, white flowers and crushed chalk. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny textured and pure, with a deep, layered core and a bright line of animating acidity, concluding with a long and nicely defined finish.

There's one barrel of the 2016 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, and while it doesn't have the depth or completeness of the Batard, it's also very impressive. Exhibiting aromas of preserved lemon, vanilla pod, brioche and toasty oak, it's concentrated and vertical, but it will need a bit of time to come together. It's too soon to say whether the Batard or Chevalier will have the edge in the end.