Open and charming, the 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru bursts from the glass with notes of pear, orange oil, white flowers, fresh apricot and buttered toast. Full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it's bright and lively, with a giving, demonstrative profile and a saline finish.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with scents of citrus oil, toasted nuts, white flowers and nutmeg. Full-bodied, multidimensional and layered, this is chiseled and racy, finer-boned than the Batard and just as penetrating, though seemingly just a touch less deep and profound. That's splitting hairs, as both are playing at a very high level this year.

The 2010 Chevalier-Montrachet comes across as light on its feet and perfumed. Citrus, pears and white flowers are all woven together nicely. This is a decidedly fruit-driven Chevalier with less in the way of mineral and aromatic dimensions. Clean layers of saline minerality make an appearance on the silky, polished finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 2009 Chevalier-Montrachet has some of the richness of the Bienvenues but with the energy of the Batard. It possesses lovely balance, an understated personality and fine textural elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2013+ Vincent Girardin is among the producers who have made the most dramatic changes in response to the issue of premature oxidation. Girardin has increased the amount of time his wines spend on their lees, has lowered new oak, has eliminated batonnage and has basically re-built his entire approach from the bottom up, which I have to say, is quite impressive. The 2009s were harvested beginning on September 15, with natural alcohols in the 12.5-13% range. The wines were bottled between mid-March and mid-May 2011. Today the 2009s are quite fresh and still showing some of the effects of their recent bottling. It is safe to say the wines Girardin is making today are quite different from those of the past. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802