The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with scents of citrus oil, toasted nuts, white flowers and nutmeg. Full-bodied, multidimensional and layered, this is chiseled and racy, finer-boned than the Batard and just as penetrating, though seemingly just a touch less deep and profound. That's splitting hairs, as both are playing at a very high level this year.