The 2017 Condrieu la Bonnette is low in acidity and positively demands near-term drinking, but it's a gorgeous wine nonetheless, with floral and apricot aromas and flavors that broaden out into a mouth-filling palate and lengthy finish. It's a rich, decadent wine to knock back over the next couple of years.

Since the last time I visited the domaine a few years ago, I'm happy to say the whites at Rostaing have improved in clarity and focus. The 2016 Condrieu la Bonnette is medium-bodied, offering attractive floral, apricot and spice aromas. It's not overly rich but is fresh instead, with a clean, refreshing, peppery/gingery finish. It should drink well for a few years.

Rene Rostaing produces around 5,000 bottles of gorgeous Condrieu La Bonnette. The 2010, which is just being released, is completely tank-fermented and aged and does not go through malolactic fermentation. Bottled about six weeks before my visit, it exhibits plenty of apricot marmalade, white peach and honeysuckle notes. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with good minerality and precision, it should drink well for 2-4 years. P.S. Readers should not forget Rostaing’s brilliant 2009 Coteaux de Languedoc Puech Noble, which received a score of 90 last year. I retasted it this year and rated it identically. It is a sleeper selection from Rostaing, and if you can not find or afford his Cote Roties, this wine (70% Syrah and the rest equal parts Mourvedre and Grenache aged in a combination of tank and older wood) is a brilliant 30,000-bottle cuvee that represents great value. Rene Rostaing believes the finest vintages in Cote Rotie have been 1971, 1991 and 2010. I would add 2009 as Rostaing made spectacular wines in that vintage, although I understand that for his personal taste they are at the limit of extreme ripeness. A perfectionist, Rostaing has made exceptionally strong wines in both 2011 and 2010. Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

A spectacular offering, the 2009 Condrieu La Bonnette comes from a fabulous site, but, sadly, production is less than 3,000 bottles. Opulent, with abundant notes of lychee nuts, white peaches and honeysuckle, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and great minerality as well as acidity, this is a sensational white wine. Rene Rostaing’s elegant style is well-displayed in both 2010 and the riper, more fleshy, exuberant 2009 vintage. Always the sexiest wine in Rostaing’s cellar is the Cote Rotie Cote Blonde. It includes 3-4% co-fermented Viognier and is always the most seamless wine resembling haute couture. Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Even better is the 2009 Condrieu, which reveals a slight amount of residual sugar as well as abundant opulent fruit, good purity and hints of lychee nuts, white peaches and honeysuckle. The 2009 will offer pleasure for 2-3 years. (Not yet released)Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484