Minerals and spices can be found in the nose of the 2002 Macon-Chaintre Jeunes Vignes. Light to medium-bodied and silky, it is a lively wine (though not angular) with almond, mineral, and nut flavors. It should be drunk over the next 3 years. French wine lovers are well aware that 2002 was a particularly difficult vintage in the south of France due to incessant rains, culminating in massive deluges at harvest time, yet to the north, in the Cote d’Or, there were almost drought-like conditions for most of the growing season, with the exception of a rainy period in late August/early September. What appears to be little-known, however, is that the demarcation line between the dry north and the wet south bisected the Maconnais. As Gerard Valette noted, “To make good wines, we needed to do a severe sort at harvest because we had gotten our fair share of the rains of the south, and therefore needed to cope with some rot.”Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

Good intensity of fruit in this balanced and delightful white. Medium-bodied, packed with lemon, cream, honey and spice aromas and flavors. Fresh, long, clean finish may not be complex, but is satisfying. Drink now through 2002. -PM

The Macon-Chaintre Jeunes Vignes has an Earl Grey tea, mineral-scented nose in addition to an immensely flavorful, explosive personality. This medium-bodied, highly expressive offering is neither complex nor particularly concentrated, but its silky texture and mineral, quince-like flavors deliver plenty of hedonistic pleasure. Drink this gem over the next three years. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.

The ubiquitous "vieilles vignes" moniker seems to have lost some its luster because of its preponderance on wine shop shelves. Kudos to Valette for his honesty in the naming of his Macon-Chaintre Jeunes Vignes. Produced from 10 year old vines (in prior vintages this wine was sold to the negoce), it offers smoke and mineral aromas as well as a medium-bodied, oily-textured and well-balanced core of tangy citrus fruit. Drink it by 2001. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.