Roasted dark fruits can be found in the nose of the ruby-colored 2000 Santenay Gravieres Vieilles Vignes. Tightly-wound, rustic, and tannic, it delivers appealing quantities of black pepper-strewn dark berry fruit. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 Note: Vincent Girardin also bottles some of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label, imported by Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.