Smoky black tea, sea breeze, meat stock, citrus oils, and yellow plum make for complex scents and flavors in the Weinbach 2007 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence, with bitter hints of plum pit, iodine, kelp, and fresh citrus among other elements helping push back against the wine’s sweetness and keep its slight finishing heat from being an impediment to enjoyment. I would anticipate 12-15 years of intrigue here. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage – especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand – and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Faintly fungal aromas accrue to Weinbach's 2006 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence as they did to their other Pinot Gris bottlings of this vintage, but these are well-integrated into a citrus cream, caramelized peach, and marrow-like meat matrix. Furthermore, we are presented with an unusual sense of clarity and primary fruit juiciness for a 2006 of this variety, and the expression of residual sugar is understated and entirely supportive of the fruit. All the way through the finish, one confronts a lovely layering of citrus, pit fruit confiture, mushroom, and meat stock, along with alkaline and peat-like mineral nuances. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 3-5 years and suspect one would find interesting uses for it. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage - especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand - and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Creamier and richer yet also clearer, purer, and more refined than the estate’s other Pinot Gris bottlings from this vintage, the 2005 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence smells and tastes of honey-drenched peach and blood orange and richly toasted nut oils. While quite sweet in finish, this sumptuous Pinot Gris is utterly luscious and inviting – indeed compelling – of the proverbial next sip. It should benefit from at least 7-9 further years in bottle.The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different bottlings might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 2004 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence is far and away the most polished and elegant of the Weinbach ’04 Pinot Gris bottlings. Musky, truffly, honeyed, and nutty aromas, a rich and creamy, piquantly nutty and in no way heavy palate impression, and a honeyed finish fascinatingly tinged with iodine-, lobster shell-like mineral notes combine for compelling, memorable complexity. Like its 2005 counterpart, this should evolve interestingly for at least 7-9 years.The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different bottlings might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802