As though its wines at the Selection de Grains Nobles level were not concentrated and powerful enough to knock tasters off their feet, Domaine Weinbach crafts some of the most intense wines on earth under the Quintessence de Grains Nobles moniker. This jammy, syrupy nectar combines massive sugar levels with bracing acidity. Readers should be aware that this wine is meant for sipping in lieu of dessert. It is simply too intense and dominating to be matched with most foods.The sugar-coated peach and apricot-scented 1997 Tokay-Pinot Gris Quintessence de Grains Nobles has superb elegance. It has the requisite acidity to balance its extraordinarily thick and juicy core of over-ripe yellow fruit, candied cherry, and raspberry jam-like flavors. Anticipated maturity: now-2030+. Since Laurence Faller took over the winemaking duties at Domaine Weinbach (1993/94) there have been marked stylistic changes to the wines. They remain extremely well-made, rich, and concentrated yet are less generous in their youth than under the former winemaker's regime. I am, however, convinced that the wines presently being produced at this famed estate will be longer-lived than those from the past.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.